V1M (UTB18) Mini Comp Chassis

Fits: Axial 1/18th Scale UTB18 Crawler Buggy

Battery: You can use the stock battery on the rear links but it is kid of tight and bulky. To optimize your performance, we recommend the Helios 600MAH 2C Lipo (https://heliosrc.com/2s-600-mah-45c-lipo/) mounted either on a front axle battery mount or rear upper link plate. The Helios battery will need to have the lead swapped to an IC2 Connector or change the connector on the stock/upgraded ESC.

Modifications Required: Direct Bolt on, No Modification required.

You will receive: 2 - CF Chassis Plates, 2 - CF Cab Plates
If Hardware Selected: - 4 - M2.5x 35 Aluminum Braces 4 - M3x20, 4 - M3x16, 4 - M3 Nylock, 8 - M2.5x10, 4 - M2.5x20, 2 - M2.5 Nylock, 8 - Zip Tie

The V1M (UTB19) Comp Chassis has been reenginered to directly bolt the driveline and components from an AXIAL UTB18 on to this Narrow chassis to allow for a more optimal proformance orented chassis for the WRCCA Mini Class Comp Crawler.

Chassis Features: The chassis and cab have been cut from 2mm Carbo Fiber sheets with a nice matt finsh. Simlia to the old Losi MRC, we have kept the base of the chassis very narrow to allow you to navigate the tight terain without bottoming out on a wide chassis. Upper link adjustment offer a range of antisquat and anti dive adjustments with 100% being your middle range allowing yout to tune your rig to match your driveing style. (These values were calculated with 1.9 Rover Tires, Front Brass Knuckles Weight Covers and rear brass Portal Covers with the stock battery mounted on top of the rear upper links and ESC Mounted to the roof of the cab.)

The basic setup will help you take the UTB18 make the most of the stock setup. All COG and weight distribution has been calculated with the stock eletronics and battery. Changing to smaller and lighter components and battery will increase your proformance. Some Adjustments may be needed.

Shocks: If using the stock Capra Shocks, the recomended setup is: Front half droop with rubber bump stop replaced with an O-Ring. Rear full droop with the rubber stps replace with an O-Ring and a pen spring under the piston inside the shock.

Rear Lower Links: Remove your rear lower links and tape them together evenly, Measure a spot about 1 inch from the base of the rod end and give them a slight bend in a vice to make them high clearance links. Alternativly, you could replace your lower links with small diameter brass links from D-Links.

Body Side Pannels: You will recieve one set of 3D printed side panels. It is recomended that you use these as a template to trace and cut pannels out of .03 lexan or even a used pop bottle to help customize your build.

The Hood Roof and Tail Plate: These parts are a solid 3D printed piece. You can substitute the prints for Aluminum Spacers and Lexan panels if you like. We opted to print these components to save you money on your conversion. Aluminum Spacers can usually be found in e-bay or Amazon for around $2-3 each for low quantities.

Aluminum Cross Brace Note: The kit includes four braces, If using a 380 size motor, you will only use three braces as the motor will interfere with the brace next to the hood. With a 380 motor, use the supplied 2.5m Nylock's in place of the Brace. If you are using a compact revolver type motor, you can use all 4 braces.

Reccomended setup: Use an after market motor and compact ESC like the Furitek system. This will allow you to reduce the ESC size and mount it on the fron Upper link plate that is included. You should also use a smaller battery mounted on the rear upper link plate. This will keep your COG low and better distribut the weight on the rig.

3D Printed Parts: You can select your desired color or save a few dollors by selecting the self print option. (Print files are free with every purchas reguardless of choice).

You Will Need: One small velcro strap to secure the battery to the rear upper link Battery Tray or heavy duty velcro.

Comp UTB18 ESC Motor Combo - https://furitek.com/products/fur-2267?_pos=1&_sid=... ... however, I'm a big fan of Holms hobbies when they start to make 380 motors again.

Wheels in Photo: Brazen Scale RC Hurricane Wheels (Delrin) - https://www.brazinscalerc.com/wheels/19-hurricanes
The beedlock rings and hubs are a 3D Printed design I did to suit my style. Those files will be included in the down-load pack. You will need 2mm hardware to secure the rings and hubs to the wheels.

////// Files will be available at the download link after pre-order is closed. all Pre-Orders will recieve and e-mail with the files once they are finalized. //////

WRCCA 2023 Rules: 2.4 - Mini Class:

Due to the nature of 3D printing, items may contain tiny visual blemishes. Items may require some trimming and painting for optimal visual appeal/fit; similar to what you would expect to do with model parts.

IMPORTANT: Do not use power drivers on 3D printed parts. Over tightening printed parts and cause premature cracking and crushing. Always ensure you hardware will not bottom out in the screw pocket. This can also cause at 3D printed part to break prematurely.

Printed Parts - These parts will be printed in Black (Unless otherwise requested) using advances slicing methods for maximum strength. All 3D printed parts come with a lifetime replacement guarantee. If you break a part, simply send us a photo and your order number. The photo is simply to evaluate for common issues and help identify potential improvements to existing designs.

Contact us @ Sales@spare-timehobbies.com or PM us @ Spare-Time Hobbies on Face Book.